A Small Breath of Africa: Proud to Be a Witsie and Gaborone, Botswana

Some major progress this week; my teaching responsibilities are picking up, I'm coordinating a research committee, attending isiZulu and graduate-research classes, and my own research is keeping me busy, but I feel like I'm making some major 'inroads.' I really enjoy my teaching responsibilities - I get to share my knowledge of education, give my students insight into what they will face in the classroom, and provide advice about college (generally: get involved, go to every class, get to know professors, et cetera). There was a powerful teaching moment this past week; after letting my students out for the period one student moseyed slowly out of class so that she was at the end of the group to get out of the door. She stopped at my desk as I was cleaning up the room and packing up. Thinking she wanted clarification about what we were going over in class, I asked her what I could help her with. She replied that she was inspired by the class. Not only was she inspired by what she was learning but also the fact that I was so young (compared to the other teachers, especially). She went on to tell me that she decided that she wanted to continue with her university studies so that she could teach college students too. I tell that story not to pat myself on the back, but it reminded me why I enjoy working with students - you can make a profound impact on someone's life, whether knowingly or not.

Another development this week was the formation of a research committee that I am leading for seniors, honours students (in between bachelor's and master's), and master's students. One of my responsibilities of Fulbright is working in the writing center on campus. After meeting with the coordinator of the writing center, she suggested that I work on helping the writing center tutors, rather than actually helping students who come into the writing center for writing help. The aim of the committee is to give students a greater understanding of research, the research processes, research writing, and give a forum for peer review (sometimes the greatest help). Although I'm not a master researcher (I'm working on it!), I feel confident leading the committee after taking numerous research classes during my Masters at Dominican. It's a nice change of pace, rather than teaching - I get to interact with the students on a different level and have deeper conversations.

Along the same lines, I've been working on literature review for my own research. I'm going to keep the topic "close to the chest" for the next few weeks, as I solidify my research question and outline my proposal. I've thoroughly enjoyed spending hours reading, note taking, and reflecting… it's fulfilling. The only downside: instant coffee. A short tangent - coffee is not highly regarded in South Africa. There are a lot of drinkers, but they are not as picky as in North America or Europe (I've found). Despite being close (relatively) to many great coffee-producing regions, it is difficult to find drip coffee, French press coffee, or espresso. Nearly all of the coffee in South Africa is instant … and it is ridiculously expensive ($8/lb). Not that it is cheap in the US, but the quality is much better. Conversely, rooibus (roy-bus/"red bush") tea, native to South Africa is dirt cheap and without caffeine.

Botswana: I left Johannesburg with the other Fulbright ETA, Mariann on Friday morning. We drove up to Pretoria on our way to Gaborone to pick up Ben and Rob, the two Fulbright ETAs at the University of Pretoria. I really enjoyed the drive; the landscape was beautiful. The vegetation was very uniquely Southern African, with an arid landscape, and rolling hills. It was interesting as well to see the Northwest Province and note the differences with Gauteng (my province). We stopped at a small town for gasoline and went to a local butchery to try their biltong ("bill-tongue" - South African jerky)…we ended up buying 1/2 a kilo and "went to town" on it as we drove. It was remarkably better (less fat, salt) than store-bought biltong (like most food).

During our four-hour trek to Gaborone, we suffered a casualty. After getting off of a major highway, we started traveling on a two-lane, worn down road (but still decently paved). I went around a corner at the same time a truck was going around. In the process, the truck threw up a large rock, which struck the windshield on the drivers (my) side. There wasn't much I could do in the middle of the country, but I cautiously drove the remaining 100km into Gaborone.

After getting into to Gaborone in the early afternoon we checked into our hotel and then I tried finding a windshield replacement center, but on a Friday afternoon, there wasn't much hope. We then met up with a Botswana Fulbrighter and went to dinner together. Overall, Gaborone is a very small city (~250,000), particularly for the capital, but it is rapidly expanding. Botswana is rated as the "least corrupt" country in Africa and its currency ("Pula" - rain) is slightly stronger than the South African Rand. The city felt very safe and the people were noticeably very nice.

On Saturday morning we woke up early and hiked up Kgale Hill, one of the focus points of the city. The country is very flat, but has random hills throughout. Not knowing what to expect, we started off and worked our way through steep inclines and loose rocks. As we went through the trail we started hearing baboons barking, seemingly close by. The locals that were out for the Saturday morning hike didn't seem to mind, so we preceded to summit the hill. The view was spectacular; we could see the city, a local quarry, and well into the distance. As we descended the hill, Rob and I separated from Ben and Mariann, deep in conversation and a quick pace. We missed the turnoff back to the main trail and didn’t realize our mistake until we got to a locked fence. By that time Ben and Mariann passed us onto the main trail. After we corrected ourselves, we were walking down and a baboon walked across the trail! We cautiously continued on the trail and made a point of making ourselves known by talking loudly (which, in hindsight, might have "challenged" the baboon).

After showering and resting from the long hike we went to the National Museum, walked around the main "mall" (in the pedestrian sense), visited the Gaborone Yacht Club (no yachts and not much of a club) and went to the Three Chiefs monument. I enjoyed the Three Chiefs monument in particular because a one of the employees graciously gave us a tour of the monument (I don’t think he had to). He walked us around, explaining the history of Botswana - tribal battles, dealing with the Boers (Afrikaners), the British, and finally gaining statehood. We then met up with the Botswana Fulbrigher for dinner again at "Bull and Bush" - one of the "hot" spots of Gaborone (or "Gabs" as people say).

It was a great weekend - nice to get out and explore Southern Africa and not too terribly stressful (~5 hour drive each way). My only background to Botswana was No. 1 Ladies Detective Agency, a book that my Grandmother recommended I read before I went to South Africa in 2010, to get the idea of Southern African culture. The book was a great example of the culture and lifestyle of Botswana (the story takes place in Gaborone).

Casualty #2: On our way back to Johannesburg, I had my first "run in" with the South African police. I was going through a town along the highway, where the speed limit lowers (and then increases after the city). As we were leaving the city the speed limit signs were increasing back to the 120 kph norm of the highway. I drove around a curve, following two cars. On the side of the road two police officers with a camera started waving at the group of cars (me and two other cars). Thinking that it was a random check for registration (which happens a lot), I pulled over. The policeman told me that I was speeding. Shocked, I explained that I was following two cars, so how could I possibly be the only "speeder." Frustrated, he drew out a diagram in the sand, saying that I sped up to the group of cars…if I did, it was long before they could've tracked me. In any event, I was going 21 kph over (81 in a 60 or ~ 12 mph over). I tried pulling the "I'm an American" card. Unsuccessful. Then I tried the "I'm a lecturer at Wits" card. Failure. Finally, I tried the "poor me" (literally) card. Not budging. The good news: If I want, I can drive three hours (each way) to go to court in May! Oh well. I guess my persuasive prowess wasn't as effective as I thought.